Outdoor Fireplace Building in Green, OR

Our inspections follow the industry's three-level standard. A Level 1 inspection covers the readily accessible parts of the system and is right for annual maintenance. A Level 2 inspection adds a video scan of the flue and is recommended when you buy or sell a home, change fuel type or after any incident.

A Level 3 inspection goes beyond the surface to examine concealed areas when serious damage is suspected, after a chimney fire or a major weather event. You always receive a clear written report with photos and recommendations, not a sales pitch.

We repair the components that fail most often, crowns, caps and chase covers, dampers, flue liners, smoke chambers, flashing and firebox surfaces, using materials rated for the job.

Catching a cracked crown or a rusted damper early is what keeps a minor repair from turning into a major rebuild. We show you what we find, explain the options and quote clearly before any work starts.

Masonry chimneys are exposed to more weather than any other part of your home. Water gets into the brick and mortar, freezes, expands and pushes the surface apart, a process called spalling. Our masonry repair restores both structural integrity and appearance.

We replace cracked or missing bricks, rebuild deteriorated sections, repair footing and structural issues, and match brick, mortar color and joint profile so the repair blends in, from a few loose bricks to a full restoration of a century-old chimney in Green.

Water stains on the ceiling near the fireplace, a musty smell after rain, or white mineral deposits on the brick all point to a chimney leak. Because a chimney has several possible entry points, we start with a diagnosis rather than a guess: the crown, the flashing where chimney meets roof, the cap and chase cover, and the masonry itself.

Then we fix the actual source, resealing or replacing flashing, repairing the crown, installing a proper cap and applying breathable waterproofing so the problem doesn't come back next spring.

Creosote is the byproduct of burning wood: unburned gases condense on the cool flue walls and harden into a flammable coating. Light, flaky creosote comes off with a standard sweep. The hard, glazed stage-3 creosote found in chimneys that burn slow, smoldering fires or unseasoned wood needs specialized removal.

We use rotary cleaning systems and, where needed, treatments that break the glaze down so it can be removed without damaging the liner, then show you how to burn so it builds more slowly next season.

The flue is the passage that carries smoke and combustion gases out of your home. When it's coated with creosote or blocked by debris, nests or fallen tile, smoke backs up into the room, and carbon monoxide can follow.

We clear the full length of the liner from firebox to cap, clean the smoke chamber, remove blockages and verify draft. We also service flues serving wood stoves, inserts and gas appliances.

Mortar is softer than brick by design, so it wears first. When joints recede, crack or crumble, water gets behind the brick and the freeze-thaw cycle takes over. Tuckpointing, also called repointing, removes the failing mortar to a proper depth and repacks the joints with new mortar matched in color, strength and profile.

Done on time, it prevents brick replacement and rebuilds. Our Green masons tuckpoint everything from a few joints near the crown to a full chimney.